From the loden to double-breasted options, the made-to-measure coat tailored to your style

The winter months bless us with more ways to express our personal style through classic outerwear and sophisticated layering.

Winter is one long stretch and the possibilities are endless.  Whether it be classic or contemporary inspired, loden or double breasted, the coat stands as a menswear wardrobe staple for the cold season. Bound to be worn again and again, its logic blurs and redefines the confines of formal and casual attire. From day to night, to work week, to weekend, the sartorial coat is nowadays not exclusively paired with a classic suit, but also dressed down with sporty shirts and joggers or layered over an overshirt. 

Winter is indeed just another chance for expressing our creative side and a Made-to-Measure coat confirms itself as the best option at that, being customizable in the choice of fabric, the style, the fit and an array of sartorial details that make it a truly unique piece. What does having a Made-to-Measure coat entail? We asked our Milan Store Manager, Luisa Doris, to give us some useful insights on how to craft the perfect outerwear piece.

Let’s start with the fabric, the first step in the Lanieri Made-to-Measure experience. Which new entries are having a moment this season?

We have two new entries in this season’s collection, both from Vitale Barberis Canonico – iconic Italian wool mill, among the most ancient worldwide, founded in 1663 and key player in the menswear sartorial elegance field. The first one is a 100% wool coat in the shades of grey. The bordeaux overcheck pattern brings a beautiful light contrast to the overall piece and gives it an unusual spin, making it extremely versatile.

 For the second pure wool option we went for a sophisticated vibe, by pairing a brown herringbone coat, with a camel, double breasted flannel suit.

Customization options. Which are they and how do you choose wisely?

Once the fabric has been selected, our customers can decide on which ever style they prefer: the classic single breasted – a true passepartout – the double breasted option, which has made a trendy come back and is undoubtedly the most elegant and formal option; and finally, the loden, with its long standing history and its iconic silhouette, making it a style staple for all retro lovers out there. It’s crucial to stress that the plus of purchasing a Made-to-Measure coat is being able to strike the right proportions and choose the ideal length according to each one’s height and taste: we suggest sticking to a knee length or go longer for a more formal end result.

Let’s talk about the styles and put an issue to rest: loden, yes or no? And which version to go for?

Long live the loden, one of the most requested coats among our clients. Iconic piece, with a history harking back to the end of the nineteenth century, it has been worn by men across different class echelons and tastes, from royals to commoners, to dandies, to jet-setters, all the way to the intellectuals of the seventies that turned it in a declaration of commitment to a cause. In its truest form it comes in forest green or grey with a flash and patch pockets, giving it a versatile and effortless feel, and is nowadays reinterpreted in a night blue shade and flap pockets, which give it more elegant feel.  

Current trends aside, the coat is definitely a durable item in a man’s wardrobe. What are the three must-haves one shouldn’t be without?

Since we’ve been going on and on about it, the loden – I favor the traditional version, preferably paired with a double-pleated trouser and a soft knit. Another fail safe is a single breasted, camel coat, to be worn with a monochromatic outfit in neutral shades. Lastly, a double breasted coat: a classic, “can’t go without” option.