Broken suit: how to mix separates and color combinations

A man leaning on a wall is wearing a black blazer and grey trousers

Italians are passionate about everything, lifestyle above all. What seems to be an unstudied wearing a suit jacket with different pants, in Italy is an art and has a name: “spezzato”.

In english we can talk about “broken suit” as the art of masterfully mixing mismatched suit and pants. Versatile and extremely chic, the mixing and matching suit has become a part of contemporary culture.

You will often see fashion icons (photo 1), Oscar winning actors (photo 2) and elegance gurus (photo 3), playing with broken suits, each one expressing their individuality.

The art of mismatching is the secret of being elegant, with an extra personal touch of creativity.

So here are our suggestions to help you create your mismatched style with modern class and elegance. We’ll give you some tips about matching the various garments then revealing four simple rules for a perfect “mismatching”.

Suit separates guide

Broken suit: beige blazer and blue pants
Sporty elegant suit separates: beige blazer and blue trousers

The broken suit allows to combine colours and patterns with more freedom – compared to the rigor of business clothes: pastel colours, brown shoes, loafers, shirts and so on depending on the season.

It’s crucial to learn how to combine all these elements and avoid unpleasant mixes.

Pairing suit separates color combinations needs a lot of attention and some attempts. Consistency is also essential: you can’t match a winter jacket with summer trousers and vice-versa.

Tone on tone is also possible, but very risky! Even colour consistency is needed: bright colours go with bright colours and light colours with light colours.

Blazer and Jacket

Put your hands in your jacket pockets and show off the most nonchalant of the looks.

The jacket is a cornerstone among the other pieces of clothing of your outfit and comes in so many different styles. Single or double-breasted, 2-button or 3-button and can be tailored from several fabrics (by the way, here you are a list of the best italian woolen mill brands).

If you really want to dare, you can try to make your own non matching suit jacket and pants by creating a custom blazer or a tailored jacket at

Broken suit: burgundy jacket and beige pants
Sophisticated mix and match suit: burgundy blazer and beige trousers


You can opt for “chinos” in summer, or even a pair of jeans in winter. For an old-school effect, wear lightly-faded jeans – but with no rips, at all. In summer, if you do not wear socks, you can roll the bottom of your trousers up baring tour ankles a bit.

If you prefer a more classic cut, design your suit jacket and tailored pants combinations with our 3D configurator.


Be careful: your outfit is ok without a jacket when you are in public and you want to take it off to dance or because it is simply too hot.

Broken Suit Lanieri Style

Here are some mix and match suit ideas for you so that you will be able to choose the right match.

Blue navy blazer with grey pants: the classic mix and match

Navy blazer and grey trousers: a timeless classic, wear it with a striped blue dress shirt for a brilliant look.

Grey jacket with blue navy pants: versatile and traditional

As in the previous case, just interchange the colours to get another great classic: grey jacket and blue trousers. Once again the blue and white striped shirt will make the look lighter.

Navy blue blazer with khaki pants: balanced and flexible

Another great classic example of broken suit is the matching blue jacket with khaki trousers, for a look that is always balanced and adapts itself in the most diverse contexts, paired with a classic white shirt.

Red blazer with blue trousers: sober but stylish

Burgundy blazer, denim shirt and blue trousers for a sober and refined look but sporty at the same time.

Broken suit for the groom

Are you the groom and are you looking for a broken suit? as we have specified in our suit groom’s guide, the broken one is not the most suitable suit for a wedding.

But if you want to show off this style in one of the most important days of your life, then focus on a black lounge suit (also know as stroller or Stresemann): dark gray jacket, light gray trousers and white ceremonial shirt.

Wedding guest broken suit

It is always about marriage: this time you are not the protagonist, but the spectator.

In this case, bear in mind that a elegant two piece will surely be suitable for the occasion but – depending on the context – you can opt for something less rigorous: blue jacket, gray trousers and white shirt will make a perfect match.

Azure jacket with electric blue pants: sporty and sophisticated style

For a bright style, this is the perfect match: summery, airy but refined and sophisticated at the same time.

Now it’s up to you: create and choose your pieces of clothing and express your personality. We suggest that you follow 4 simple mix-and-match rules.

4 rules for a perfect broken suit

Have you ever wondered how to (and when) mismatch a suit and recombine it with suit separates color and fabric combinations?

Here are 4 simple tips that will allow you to show off a refined elegance, without making mistakes.

Contrasts make all the difference

broken suit light blue jacket
Play with similar tones

Do not fall into the trap of considering the broken suit an art for eccentrics. Depending on the occasion and mood, learn to manage colour contrasts.

Play with the shades of the same colour scheme (blue-light blue, black-grey, brown-beige) in order to keep a formal look.

If the situation permits, don’t be afraid of also matching a darker-colour blazer (burgundy, green, dark blue) with lighter-colour trousers and dare with patterns and coloured pocket squares.

Fit on top

Whenever you decide to go beyond formality it is important to do it stylishly.

If you decide to treat yourself to a spezzato, combine well-fitted blazers and trousers, possibly tailored.

A well-cut suit will allow you to play with colours and patterns, while maintaining the right amount of sophistication.

Mismatch with nonchalance

broken suit double breasted
Opt for a spezzato style on casual occasions

The Italian term “spezzato” should not be confused with the term “sprezzatura”. They are not synonymous: the truth is that one is the secret of the other.
“Sprezzatura” is the ability of wearing anything with absolute nonchalance – and that’s definitely an essential attitude for those who decide to go beyond convention.

Bon ton, thank you

Express yourself, but please observe the etiquette. There are situations that need a precise dress code and where you need to adapt yourself.

If this is the case, you had better make room for conventional elegance.

An important meeting? A job interview? A classic blue suit is the most appropriate choice. What about wedding ceremonies? In this case the only spezzato admitted will be Mr. Morning Suit.

Customise your tailored broken suit

3 Comment

  1. […] with colors create more creativity. This is breaking the formal suit by being creative with […]

  2. Kelvin B Calloway says:

    Very informative.

  3. ST says:

    It also makes the op shop pure wool jacket workable without matching pants.
    A well cut jacket, a shower, within tolerance fatness, sleep and a healthy mind… Sprezzatura all day long

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